A Taste of Danger You Won't Find in Port Au Prince
I received an email this past week. The title was "A Taste of Danger You
Won't Find in Port au Prince." The junk email came from Kayak.com, a
website that helps would-be travellers find good travel deals on
flights, hotels and car rentals. They were advertising for some
off-the-beaten path "dangerous" destinations such as Beirut and Morocco.
I must have registered my email address and entered some basic
information about myself, because they knew that I live in Port au
Prince. You might have received one of these emails too - but yours said
"A Taste of Danger You Won't Find in Vancouver" or " . . . Miami" or . .
.. "fill in your hometown here."
This probably didn't strike you as odd or ironic - because it's true,
there probably isn't a whole lot of danger in Campden or St.Catharines
or Wichita. But when I got the email, I couldn't help but laugh.
I do live in Port au Prince and yes, (mom, stop reading now) it can be
dangerous. There are some areas of the city controlled by gangs. Drug
and weapon running is becoming serious business here. There is simmering
political tension that could explode at any minute. Haiti, if only
temporarily, overtook Columbia as the kidnapping capital of the Western
hemisphere. These are all facts that affect daily life here.
What struck me most about the email was the reminder about how little we
know about many of the places we hear about in the news. Or, should I
say, how little we know about the truth. Or how little we know about the
rest of the story. When we hear "Kenya" we used to think of red-beaded
Massai warriors, or vast game parks. Now we think of a contested
election and violence. But what about the reality that exists between
the National Geographic version of Kenya and the CNN version?
Unfortunately for Haiti, the National Geographic perception does not
exist. For the vast majority of people, the CNN version is their only
understanding of this incredibly fascinating and complex country. The
guidebooks and travel sites that we read before coming to Haiti in 2004
all started with the phrase, "Haiti, the poorest country in the Western
hemisphere, . . . " That's the CNN version of Haiti. But the reality is
so much deeper and while I don't pretend to understand Haiti, I do feel
like I've gotten to know it much better over these 3+ years. Danger
exists and poverty is real - that is to be neither diminished nor
ignored. But thankfully, the truth is so much deeper.
For example, did you know that Haiti was the world's first free black
republic and the site of the first successful slave revolt? (This is not
the place to talk about modern day economic slavery being exacted on
Haiti - we'll save that for another entry.) Or, did you know that
Christopher Columbus' first landing spot in the "new world" was Haiti?
You've probably heard of some famous Haitians. One of the most popular
right now is Wyclef Jean, but there are many more - artists, athletes,
business leaders, and many more. Don't forget about Michaelle Jean,
Canada's Governor General. CNN shows you the denuded hillsides, but I've
walked through pine forests here. You've probably seen the seaside
shantytown of Cite Soleil, but I talked to someone today that lives in a
"good" neighbourhood who said that Cite Soleil has more paved streets
than most areas.
The good news I want to leave with you is that Haiti is getting better.
Things have changed - a lot - since the crisis of 2004. The government,
while struggling, is stable. There are signs of economic growth and
investment in Haiti. There is an exciting movement to support local food
and artistic production. It's ok to walk the streets in many parts of
the city. Kidnapping has decreased dramatically. Many gang leaders have
been arrested and there is news of high profile arrests quite often. So,
if it's a danger buzz you want - go to Morocco. If it's an experience
that will make you shake you head, laugh, cry, shake your fist, smile,
think, dance and lift your hands to the heavens, and in the end
transform you beyond your wild imagination, well, we have an extra bed
waiting for you here in Haiti.
